With the best of intentions, before my self-imposed break last month, I had photographed a tutorial showing how I adapted Colette’s Patterns’ Sorbetto into the Toast inspired tunic. Now finally, I’ve dug them out, and I hope they make sense (let me know in the comments, if they don’t).
First and foremost, most of the credit for this tutorial belongs to Analog Me and her awesome kimono-tee tutorial – check it out here!
To make this variation you will need:
1. Cut out your Sorbetto front and remove the box-pleat by cutting along the centre-front.
2. Mark the stitching lines on the sleeve and front pieces, remembering that the neck and arm-holes of the sorbetto only have 1/4in seam allowance because they are designed for a bias-bound finish.
3. Align the shoulder seam on the front piece with the shoulder point on the sleeve, aligning stiching lines. Do the same under the arm, however, if you like more ease then the underarm points don’t have to meet (e.g. you could leave a 1in gap).
4. Lay the tracing paper over the pattern pieces and trace all the edges. Extend the shoulder seam down the middle of the sleeve piece but don’t draw the sleeve edge in yet.
5. Soften the curve under the arm.
6. From each of the sleeve edges draw a line 1-2in long at a right angle to the existing seam.
7. Using a slight S-shape, join the two lines together forming the sleeve edge.
8. Draw a higher neckline by extending the centre front 2-3in then drawing a straight line starting perpendicular to the CF then curving up to the original neckline.
9. Here you can see the new pattern piece in relation to the bust dart. Repeat steps 1-8 for the back piece making sure you use the back half of the sleeve piece.
10. Measure the length of your front and back sleeve edges without seam allowance then add 1 1/4in (3cm). Cut a rectangle that is 5in by this length. This is your cuff piece.
11. Pin front to back at side and shoulder seams and try on. Measure your desired length and extend both pieces.
- Sew bust darts.
- Sew front to back at shoulder and side seams.
- Cut 2x cuff pieces from your fabric and 2 from interfacing. Fuse together.
- With right sides together, stitch short ends of each cuff piece together forming a circle. Press seam open.
- With right sides together, stitch cuff to sleeve edge, matching seams under the arm.
- Press under 1/2in of the cuff’s raw edge then fold this edge to the inside of the armhole. Slip stitch in place.
- Fold the cuff up again as you like it.