Mission Maxi

imageBring on the Sun!

imageThe Pattern: Jamie Christina Mission Maxi, view A

Size + Alterations: I cut a size 16 (chosen by my high bust measurement) then made a that’ll-do style of FBA, i.e. I fudged it from a few different tutorials on the interwebs. I didn’t want a side seam bust dart as this is jersey so rather than sew the one created by the FBA I just eased the excess into the back pieces at the side seams. To my great surprise it actually worked!

The Fabric: Oh this fabric! It was lust at first sight. I’d already found a nice classic navy at a previous shop when I spied this origami paper style print at Classic Textiles on Goldhawk Road and to make it even better it was only £3.50 per metre and is super soft.

Time to Make: So fast, I cut out the night before then sewed it together in an hour or two the next morning.

New Skills: Attatching a knit binding – the instructions are awesome for this.

imageFavourite Features: So quick, so neat, so easy, so comfy.

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Changes for Next Time: Adjust the back piece to hide bra-straps.

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‘scuse the scrunched up face – the glare was out of control!

First Worn: On holiday back home and many times since.

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Gertie’s Bombshell Bodice

Bombshell-title

The Pattern: BurdaStyle 07/2011 #132

Size + Alterations: I started with a size 48 but I followed Gertie’s Craftsy Course for the fitting so the actual size is anyone’s guess. I took quite a lot out of the back panels and the three-piece cup changed shape dramatically.

The Fabric: Oh, I splurged for this ;) 1.5m of Anna Maria Horner’s Turn of Events Voile and the same of medium weight cotton  both from the lovely folks at Raystitch.

Time to Make: I was on a bit of a deadline for this project so it was quite intense. I completed it during evenings for a week and over a weekend. Using the craftsy course was great as it broke it into manageable chunks but there’s no escaping the fact that there is a lot of hand sewing and fitting involved.

Bombshell-composite

New Skills: Too many to count thanks to following the course – thread tracing, draping the cups, properly underlining, boning, joining the lining by hand.

bombshell-4x4Favourite Features: The fabric is just dreamy to work with and I love the way the zipper works – I hate the feeling of a side zipper tab under my arm so I inserted it upside down. It now sits at the bottom when zipped up.

Ch-ch-ch-changes: In hindsight, I made the cups a little shallow. It fits because they are quite wide but the centre panel doesn’t sit flat on my chest. The bodice is really a work of engineering because of the weight it needs to support so next time I would trace off the cups of a well fitting bra as the starting point.

bombshell-issue

First Worn: Eek, I haven’t yet. I chickened out of wearing it to the black-tie even as it was work related and this felt a little too booby-liscious. I’m working on building up my cahones to wear it in public.

Repeatability: Well I don’t really need another for the reasons above but for the learning experience – absolutely!

Sew Grateful: Thanks to Gertie for being a kick-ass teacher on the course.

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sewaholic-cambieliscious-expialidocious

Sewaholic-cambie-title

The Pattern: Sewaholic Cambie View A

Size and Alterations: Size 14 at the shoulders grading to 16 at the waist and hips. 1 1/2 inch full bust adjustment which added side-seam bust darts.

The Fabric: Cotton Sateen purchased over a year ago on Goldhawk road. Oh yes, the magical meet-up fabric finally made it out of the stash!

Time to Make: This was much quicker than I anticipated despite having 20 darts to sew once I’d added the FBA. All up about 4 and a half hours excluding cutting it out. Though I must give a shout-out to Jen’s chaining tutorial at Grainline – serious game changer people!

Sewaholic-cambie-4

Favourite Features: Too many to choose from! The pockets are genius - though I would recommend reinforcing the stitching at the top and side edges, if you’re like me and always keep your hands in them. The fabric was a dream – sturdy and dependable making it easy to sew. Also, one of the things Tasia’s patterns always excel at – neat tricks for finishing the inside as nicely as the outside.

Sewaholic-cambie-inside

Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes: I think I could have started with a size 12 at the shoulders as they are a little big and the top of the sweet heart neckline gapes. I really like the look of Tasia’s samples and I think this would make the difference.

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First worn: Quarter Brief work function

Repeatability: For sure.

Guilded Colette Lily

Another summer sewing project, this dress was made in a hurry but is still my favourite dress of the season.

From the front

The fabric was a serendipitous find from Walthamstow market at only a pound a meter. I have a sneaking suspicion it may have been a home dec cloth but this dress would not be defeated by such definitions. It has a thick slub like weft thread and a shiny warp and seems slightly mustard and green-gold depending on the light. These photos were taken in the sunny kitchen so they look more yellow.

The back – ignore the black zip – I was in hurry

The pattern is Colette’s Lily, one I overlooked in favour of the clever Hazel when the spring patterns were released. In hindsight, what a silly mistake. This pattern is fantastic, hugging all the right places and with pocket construction reminiscent of the Rooibos to top it off.

Day-Lily

I made it in a rush for a work team dinner but I’m determined to find more excuses to wear it now!

Palette Challenge:
Saffron Vogue 1250 + FBA

Continuing on my quest for work-wear that feels like PJs, I finally jumped on the Vogue 1250 bandwagon and like a broken record I can add my cry to the masses – “what took me so long?!”.

Made from a soft golden light-weight double-knit found on Goldhawk Road, I started cutting the pattern at 6:30pm last night and was done by 10:00pm. It’s such a dream to go together.

The only tricky bit was figuring out the full bust adjustment, as there is really only 2 pieces to this pattern – the upper back, and the rest. I took flat measurements and added a couple of inches to the skirt at the centre back. I knew I’d need more room at the bust but I didn’t want to add any at the waist so rather than a normal FBA, I winged it. (Sorry if it doesn’t make sense – the pictures didn’t come out as clear as I’d hoped.)

The net result is a much deeper tuck at the shoulder giving more room at the bust. I had my fingers crossed the whole way but I like how it turned out.

The Toast Tunic

At what point does a Sorbetto stop being a Sorbetto? I’m not sure of the answer, but I do know Colette’s free tank top pattern hasn’t let me down yet.

One of my favourite discoveries in England has been the phenomenon of the Toast Catalogue.

Toast is clothing/homewares store that stocks simple designs in beautiful quality fabrics. Their campaign shoots are just stunning and have made them their own niche in the world of catalogues.

They are (somewhat humorously) described in the Guardian as

“[being] synonymous with an idyllic, relaxed and creative way of life where people breeze around their Venetian palazzo or Scottish bothy looking beautiful. The catalogues are famous for their photography, shot on location in Lapland, Argentina or Sri Lanka. And Toast customers from Notting Hill to the Outer Hebrides buy into that way of life when they order their Fair Isle wool socks or their faded floral silk dressing-gowns. “

Toast Catalogue

One of my favourite items are their kimono-sleeved tunic dresses which they do in several fabrics, so it was a natural leap from my kimono-sleeved sorbetto to this dress. I widened the neckline, added cuffs and lengthened it straight down.

The problem is that it was so quick and easy to make… now I want more in silk… and wool…  and velvet… sigh.

 ETA: Tutorial for altering the pattern has been added here :)

A Vintage Christmas Colette Macaron

This is my second version of Colette Pattern’s Macaron dress although the first, which you can see here, was really a wearable muslin. For this version I finally got to use this lovely vintage cotton floral twill I found at a cool vintage fabric store just off Brick Lane, simply called The Shop.

Image via thevintageguidetolondon.com

Every Thursday they get new deliveries, and while it’s not as cheap as a charity shop find (they specialise in fabric not clothing) there is plenty to hunt through and it’s still quite reasonable.This was a 3 yard length although very narrow (35in) and it cost £6.50.

I wasn’t sure what t0 do with it but I think the vintage feel of Colette Patterns make a nice fit and I needed something nice but still warm and comfortable for Christmas Day. The red and green of this print don’t shout Christmas but sort of give it a subtle nod, like Joni Mitchell’s River*, not a Christmas song as such but it sure evokes the season.

 I made a number of changes with this version:

  • I kept the FBA in tact (detailed FBA posts here and here) but I shortened the darts under the bust by one inch.
  • Lowered the neckline by 5/8in as I felt a little choked by the high neck.
  • I had a problem of the bodice pieces not matching at the side seams of the last version so I adjusted the edges to make sure they were exactly the same length.
  • I widened the midriff band to 3 1/2in.
  • Made the skirt wider. I love the tulip shape of the original but I wanted something looser and longer for this to be a winter version.
  • Lastly I lengthened the sleeves to elbow length and added a cuff inspired by Adey’s version of Vintage Simplicity 3074 on the Sew Weekly.

And in the end it’s the little things I love most about this dress, the cuffs, the pockets set into the pleats and the sweetheart bodice. I’m so glad I gave it another go and now I have something to wear for my very first English Christmas!

*Any excuse to include a little Joni.

The Sew Grateful Dress: Vintage Simplicity 4908

 

The gorgeous and gracious Debi, who I’m sure you all know from her blog My Happy Sewing Place and her work on the Sew Weekly, recently hosted a challenge in celebration of Thanksgiving.

The instructions were to use a piece of fabric or pattern you had won or been gifted or to use a tutorial from another blogger in the spirit of saying thanks to the collaborative community that we are all a part of. And lucky me, the day after reading Debi’s Sew Grateful challenge, I won a blogiversary giveaway of two vintage patterns from Amy of Sewing Through the Motions.

I decided to make Simplicity 4908, which according to the Vintage Patterns wiki is from the early to mid 60′s.

 

The dress has a princess seamed bodice and kimono sleeves. The front panel and the belt are all cut as one piece and it finishes at the back with a bow. Which makes me feel a little like I’ve accidentally made a bridesmaid dress…

Image via Aeva Couture

I blame Four Weddings and a Funeral.

Still, I think a 60′s vintage dress in coral sounds just lovely so I didn’t let that put me off. Nor did I get defeated by the amount of pattern alterations that were needed.

To start with, I graded it from a 36in to a 41in bust before tackling the full bust adjustment. Frustratingly because of all the angles involved in the side front panel it just wouldn’t come together so instead I created a new pattern from a hodgepodge of ones I already knew fit.

The first pieces I needed were for the shoulder princess-line bodice, so I grabbed my Sewaholic Pendrell blouse. Next the kimono sleeves, which came from the white lace tee I made a few weeks ago.  I fit the pendrell pieces under the bust (it’s usually a loose blouse) then cut the side panel at the midriff to mimic the curve on the original piece. The bottom of the side panel attached to the front piece. The kimono sleeve addition was pinned to the side panel before tracing it off again and adjusting the seam allowance.

The back piece was the only originally graded piece I used, except for the bow. The only change made was to make the neckline scooped rather than V- or bateau necked. I continued the belt from the front piece around the back tracing the outline of that piece.

The skirt I adapted from Burdastyle’s Jenny Pencil Skirt, and the pockets came from another pattern.

You can see the original pieces above and below you can see how they sort of piece together.

 

In the end, it came together pretty well despite all the improvisations. By the time I’d made all the changes, a muslin might have killed me so I just went ahead and whipped it up but next time I’l remove a little length under the bust and definitely add more ease at the hips.

Still for my first attempt at sewing a vintage pattern, I’m chuffed.

 

Sewaholic Minoru Muslin/Sweater-dress + FBA

I find myself with a bit of a problem. Whilst my brain knows that making a muslin is not a waste of fabric I seem to be physically incapable of disposing of one once it’s made.

Which goes a little way to explaining this odd sweater/dress hybrid.

I want to make an all-weather version of Sewaholic’s latest pretty and practical pattern – the Minoru Jacket. Tasia’s sew-a-long begins in earnest in January but I thought I’d get a head start on the muslin being that it usually causes much feet dragging. I had some double-knit which would work and really I just wanted to check that the full-bust adjustment would work okay on the dartless bodice.

Here’s how it went:

(click to enlarge)

ETA: On regular version add the length created at Line 3 to the front placket and zip, too.

 It worked just fine and I now know when it comes to making the real version I’ll need a 34in separating zipper not a 32in due to the additional length from the FBA.

Still I didn’t want to waste a zipper I can’t really afford on a muslin so I thought to myself… what would happen if I cut the front on a fold (adding in the width of the button placket)? Answer is… a Sweater-Dress. It’s very comfortable despite being unlined and the fact I messed the collar up royally. I didn’t notice the front placket went up to the top of the collar so I forgot to add the additional length and then I went and sewed it on backwards. Oh well, good thing it’s just a knock-around for home.

 The pattern itself is so lovely to sew, and now I have my alterations all done I can’t wait for January.