Vogue 1250: Floral Jersey Faithful

imageI love this dress to the point it’s been hard to photograph because I wear it so much. It’s Vogue 1250, seen previously here and here.

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I’m aftraid I don’t have anything new to add to the previous times I’ve made it – same size, same FBA albeit in a drapier viscose jersey.

imageThe gorgeous print and the softness of the fabric drew me in but unfortunately it has some quality issues – you can see the pilling and fabing in the waist area. So dissapointing!

imageStill I’ll keep wearing it as long as I can – you’ll have to pry it away.

 

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FO: Simple Sewaholic Saltspring

Salt-spring-front

Hello!

Back again with a post I procrastinated over for a few months. Not that there’s anything wrong with this dress – it’s just I’m still struggling to find somewhere to take photos in my flat. The light of an English winter being what it is I’ve pushed the exposure on these pretty high to see the details and it’s less than ideal, gah. The photo situation is a work in progress but I have a couple of things still to try.

Anyways, this is of course the Sewaholic Saltspring pattern sewn in drapey jersey knit fabric. I actually completed this one before going on to the Salt-fall longsleeved variation – as you can see it’s not quite in season.

Saltspring-Back

To be honest, the other reason I was hesistant to post this one, is because there is not much to really say about it. I followed the pattern as written and from memory I didn’t make any alterations. I must say it’s a super easy dress to fit due to the elastic waist and would be ideal if you had to make something for a friend as the measurements don’t need to be so precise.

Salt-spring-Side

In the end I figured it’s always nice to be able to see patterns on different body shapes so while this isn’t anything new it’s nice to have in the archives.

Saltspring-Bodice

I promise something more exciting for next time! I had a lovely time catching up with new and old friends on Goldhawk Road yesterday so the motivation is revving up.

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Salt-Fall Dress: Adding Sleeves to the Sewaholic Saltspring Dress Pattern

Salt-Fall-TitleThis is pretty much the dress I want to wear all of the time, these days. It’s stretchy, comfortable and can be dressed up or down easily… and it has pockets.

 

The Pattern: Sewaholic Renfrew + Sewaholic Saltspring

Contrary to what actually makes it to the blog, I have been sewing in the few moments I can grab around work and after my BHL Anna Dress I continued the maxi momentum with a full length knit Saltspring dress (which is languishing in the to be photographed pile). This pattern is everything lovely about Tasia’s designs – deceptively simple, beautifully cut and cleverly designed but it’s very much a summer dress with it’s drapey top and shoestring straps and damnit I wanted these same things going into Autumn so sleeves were needed.

Salt-Fall-SideEnter Sewaholic Pattern’s much loved basic the Renfrew (also made and not yet blogged).

Size + AlterationsI started with a size 16 in both patterns then overlapped the pattern pieces to see how they interacted together.

Salt-Fall-Pattern-Pieces

 

You can see that the the bodice front of the saltspring dress is longer than the bodice front lining and that it has been slashed and spread not just lengthened at the bottom edge.

Looking at the back view of the saltspring and renfrew together the hardest part was deciding where to align them. Because I was using a knit, I could eliminate the zipper and cut the back on the fold so I started by overlapping the centre back of each piece. Beyond that I just estimated where the waist would fall on each piece which happened to be between the lengthen/shorten lines on each piece so that’s what I went with.

Straight away you can see the saltspring piece is much wider so I started by tracing the renfrew neckline and armscye then merged into the saltspring for the side seam and the hem. I did have to go back and smooth the curve of the side seam but it was pretty straight forward.

Salt-Fall-New-Pattern

I had to do this for the front bodice, front lining, back bodice and back lining. The skirt pieces are from the salt spring and the sleeves are from renfrew.

Other changes – I made a 1.5 inch FBA, made the neckline 2 inches lower at the front grading to a half inch wider at the shoulders.

The Fabric: 2.5 metres of Cotton Jersey from Classic Textiles on Goldhawk Road @ £3.50 per meter.

Construction: Between you and me I kind of winged the construction but as best I can remember:

  • Bodice front to bodice back at the shoulders and side seams
  • Repeat with bodice front and back lining
  • With wrong sides together, basted bodice to lining at armscye and hem (allowing the bodice to bag out).
  • Sew sleeve seam
  • Sew sleeve cuff and attach as per Renfrew instructions
  • Insert the sleeve
  • Attach the neckband as per Renfrew instructions
  • Continue as per Saltspring instructions

Salt-Fall-Close-Duo

Time to Make: One afternoon for altering the pattern pieces and another for sewing.

Favourite Features: It’s not so much a favourite feature but this is definitely super comfortable which is exactly what I needed. You know those pieces that feel like pajamas but don’t necessarily look it.Salt-Fall-BackChanges for Next Time: Definitely need more length in both the bodice and the skirt. I’m 5 foot 9 and generally I don’t have to make any adjustment for my height but I definitely noticed it here. You can see at the back that the elasticated waist doesn’t have as much blousing because I keep pulling it down. Next time I would add maybe 2 inches to the bodice pieces by slashing and spreading and 3 inches at the skirt hem.

First Worn: Family hols in Avignon.

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BHL Anna in Jersey

Photo 19-08-2013 09 31 24

Hulloh! I finally had a wee rest from work and managed to break my sewing dry spell in a most luxurious way – a stretchy, flowy Anna dress from By Hand London.

The Pattern: By Hand London Anna Dress

Size + Alterations: I know that the woven version is going to need some alterations including a full bust adjustment but for this one I embraced the stretch and just made a straight size 20 off the pattern. If I’d thought it through beforehand I would have eliminated the seams and darts from the back bodice but it still worked fine with them in. The only defference to the jersey was to take a wedge out from the under arm through the waist then grading quickly out at the hip.

Anna-Wedge

Contouring the side seam

The Fabric: A funky grey on black aztec printed jersey found a the last Birmingham Rag Market Meet-up in June. I wasn’t sure it would work but the lovely ladies on twitter and instagram were all the support needed and Lizzy shared a link to this gorgeous knit version from Sew Exhausted.

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Time to Make: A few hours – about 50:50 cutting out and sewing together. I overlocked most of the seams which speeds things up for sure but the cutting took a while as you’re dealing with some loooong pattern pieces in the skirt.

New Skills: For the darts and tucks in the bodice I got to try out the walking foot that came with my new sewing machine and it worked a dream once I managed to actually get it onto the machine. For finishing the armholes and neckline I serged the edge then turned it under twice fixing with a straight stitch and another foot – the one with a 1/4in seam guide.

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Favourite Features: I love a good kimono sleeve and these fit well. The skirt is super full but becuase of the panels it doesn’t feel cartoonish.

Anna-PortraitAnna-Out-FrontFirst Worn: Lazing around the house and down to the shops on holidays – ’cause it’s all about the casual glamour, right?

 

 

Mission Maxi

imageBring on the Sun!

imageThe Pattern: Jamie Christina Mission Maxi, view A

Size + Alterations: I cut a size 16 (chosen by my high bust measurement) then made a that’ll-do style of FBA, i.e. I fudged it from a few different tutorials on the interwebs. I didn’t want a side seam bust dart as this is jersey so rather than sew the one created by the FBA I just eased the excess into the back pieces at the side seams. To my great surprise it actually worked!

The Fabric: Oh this fabric! It was lust at first sight. I’d already found a nice classic navy at a previous shop when I spied this origami paper style print at Classic Textiles on Goldhawk Road and to make it even better it was only £3.50 per metre and is super soft.

Time to Make: So fast, I cut out the night before then sewed it together in an hour or two the next morning.

New Skills: Attatching a knit binding – the instructions are awesome for this.

imageFavourite Features: So quick, so neat, so easy, so comfy.

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Changes for Next Time: Adjust the back piece to hide bra-straps.

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‘scuse the scrunched up face – the glare was out of control!

First Worn: On holiday back home and many times since.

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Gertie’s Bombshell Bodice

Bombshell-title

The Pattern: BurdaStyle 07/2011 #132

Size + Alterations: I started with a size 48 but I followed Gertie’s Craftsy Course for the fitting so the actual size is anyone’s guess. I took quite a lot out of the back panels and the three-piece cup changed shape dramatically.

The Fabric: Oh, I splurged for this ;) 1.5m of Anna Maria Horner’s Turn of Events Voile and the same of medium weight cotton  both from the lovely folks at Raystitch.

Time to Make: I was on a bit of a deadline for this project so it was quite intense. I completed it during evenings for a week and over a weekend. Using the craftsy course was great as it broke it into manageable chunks but there’s no escaping the fact that there is a lot of hand sewing and fitting involved.

Bombshell-composite

New Skills: Too many to count thanks to following the course – thread tracing, draping the cups, properly underlining, boning, joining the lining by hand.

bombshell-4x4Favourite Features: The fabric is just dreamy to work with and I love the way the zipper works – I hate the feeling of a side zipper tab under my arm so I inserted it upside down. It now sits at the bottom when zipped up.

Ch-ch-ch-changes: In hindsight, I made the cups a little shallow. It fits because they are quite wide but the centre panel doesn’t sit flat on my chest. The bodice is really a work of engineering because of the weight it needs to support so next time I would trace off the cups of a well fitting bra as the starting point.

bombshell-issue

First Worn: Eek, I haven’t yet. I chickened out of wearing it to the black-tie even as it was work related and this felt a little too booby-liscious. I’m working on building up my cahones to wear it in public.

Repeatability: Well I don’t really need another for the reasons above but for the learning experience – absolutely!

Sew Grateful: Thanks to Gertie for being a kick-ass teacher on the course.

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sewaholic-cambieliscious-expialidocious

Sewaholic-cambie-title

The Pattern: Sewaholic Cambie View A

Size and Alterations: Size 14 at the shoulders grading to 16 at the waist and hips. 1 1/2 inch full bust adjustment which added side-seam bust darts.

The Fabric: Cotton Sateen purchased over a year ago on Goldhawk road. Oh yes, the magical meet-up fabric finally made it out of the stash!

Time to Make: This was much quicker than I anticipated despite having 20 darts to sew once I’d added the FBA. All up about 4 and a half hours excluding cutting it out. Though I must give a shout-out to Jen’s chaining tutorial at Grainline – serious game changer people!

Sewaholic-cambie-4

Favourite Features: Too many to choose from! The pockets are genius – though I would recommend reinforcing the stitching at the top and side edges, if you’re like me and always keep your hands in them. The fabric was a dream – sturdy and dependable making it easy to sew. Also, one of the things Tasia’s patterns always excel at – neat tricks for finishing the inside as nicely as the outside.

Sewaholic-cambie-inside

Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes: I think I could have started with a size 12 at the shoulders as they are a little big and the top of the sweet heart neckline gapes. I really like the look of Tasia’s samples and I think this would make the difference.

Sewaholic-cambie-front-alt

First worn: Quarter Brief work function

Repeatability: For sure.

Guilded Colette Lily

m4s0n501

Another summer sewing project, this dress was made in a hurry but is still my favourite dress of the season.

From the front

The fabric was a serendipitous find from Walthamstow market at only a pound a meter. I have a sneaking suspicion it may have been a home dec cloth but this dress would not be defeated by such definitions. It has a thick slub like weft thread and a shiny warp and seems slightly mustard and green-gold depending on the light. These photos were taken in the sunny kitchen so they look more yellow.

The back – ignore the black zip – I was in hurry

The pattern is Colette’s Lily, one I overlooked in favour of the clever Hazel when the spring patterns were released. In hindsight, what a silly mistake. This pattern is fantastic, hugging all the right places and with pocket construction reminiscent of the Rooibos to top it off.

Day-Lily

I made it in a rush for a work team dinner but I’m determined to find more excuses to wear it now!

Palette Challenge:
Saffron Vogue 1250 + FBA

Continuing on my quest for work-wear that feels like PJs, I finally jumped on the Vogue 1250 bandwagon and like a broken record I can add my cry to the masses – “what took me so long?!”.

Made from a soft golden light-weight double-knit found on Goldhawk Road, I started cutting the pattern at 6:30pm last night and was done by 10:00pm. It’s such a dream to go together.

The only tricky bit was figuring out the full bust adjustment, as there is really only 2 pieces to this pattern – the upper back, and the rest. I took flat measurements and added a couple of inches to the skirt at the centre back. I knew I’d need more room at the bust but I didn’t want to add any at the waist so rather than a normal FBA, I winged it. (Sorry if it doesn’t make sense – the pictures didn’t come out as clear as I’d hoped.)

The net result is a much deeper tuck at the shoulder giving more room at the bust. I had my fingers crossed the whole way but I like how it turned out.